IN AND AROUND GARDA TRENTINO
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RIVA DEL GARDA
Riva del Garda, the main hub of Garda Trentino, is a mosaic of strong contrasts and breathtaking scenery which is an expression of its incredible vivacity. Set between the lake and the mountains it has inspired countless poets and works of art and a series of architectural styles bears witness to waves of different cultures and rulers.
Situated atop Mount Rocchetta, the BASTIONE is a landmark which immediately catches the eye. Built for the protection of the town in the 16th century at the end of Venetian rule, the fortress is still intact despite the attempts of the French to demolish it in 1703. Visitors can get there in 20 minutes along a short cobbled path or in just 2 minutes by the panoramic glass elevator. There is a 180° panorama over the entire Garda Trentino area. The path becomes steeper as it climbs until it comes to the CHAPEL OF SANTA BARBARA (1,520 m asl), built in 1925 by miners hired for the construction of the new hydroelectric power plant. Dedicated to their patron saint, it is a destination for countless tourists who in addition to the breathtaking view can also admire the particular architecture of the building and the paintings inside.
Head back down to the historic centre where there are many points of interest worth a visit. Begin with the HYDROELECTRIC POWER PLANT, an impressive feat of architecture and engineering designed by G. Maroni,
the architect who designed the lakeside promenade in Riva del Garda and the Vittoriale of Gabriele D’Annunzio who actually inaugurated this power plant in 1928. Highlights of the historic centre include a tour of the power plant which by harnessing the waters of Lake Ledro in a downward run of 590 mt through penstocks in the rock continues to produce clean energy. The “Numen Aquarum” sculpture on the facade is by S. Zaniboni
(info www.hydrotourdolomiti.it). A stone’s throw away in Piazza Catena and Piazza Tre Novembre you find yourself in the very heart of the town. Here, overlooking the old harbour, are the Palazzo Pretorio, the Town Hall and the TORRE APPONALE, a 34 metre high clock tower dating back to the 13th century raised in 1555 and subsequently restored with the removal of the “onion” dome in favour of a pitched roof with a decorative windvane in the form of an angel affectionately known to locals as “Anzolim de la Tor” which is the symbol of the town. If you feel up to it, you can climb 165 steps to enjoy a spectacular panorama from the top (info & booking www.museoaltogarda.it).
The lakeside promenade leads to the ROCCA, the medieval fortress commissioned by Bishop Altemanno in 1124. Initially the residence of the bishop and
then the Captain, under Austrian rule it became a barracks. Changes in ownership and function over
the years resulted in modifications to the medieval
and Renaissance era features while leaving intact the protective charm of this lakeside stronghold. Nowadays it houses the museum MAG - MUSEO
ALTO GARDA, which hosts temporary exhibitions,
a workshop space for families and children, the Pinacoteca gallery of landscape paintings of Lake Garda, works by Pietro Ricchi, Vincenzo Vela and Francesco Hayez. There is also a considerable archaeology section with the famous standing stones, Copper Age finds of international significance (info & booking www.museoaltogarda.it). On the eastern side of the moat, bringing Maroni’s lakeside promenade to a close, we come to SPIAGGIA DEGLI OLIVI, a bathing spot which was very popular in the past (with an emblematic stone post lighthouse) and a famous venue throughout Italy. Today, part of the building
is occupied by the local yacht club Fraglia della Vela
as well as a tourist marina.
Turn your back to the lake and continue a hundred metres or so till you come to CONVENTO DI SAN FRANCESCO which now houses public offices. Dating back to the 12th century, it has a lovely flower garden and, inside, a cloister with a bell tower belonging to what was once
the convent chapel. Heading into the alleys of the centre you will be drawn to the majestic church CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA (1728-1742) with its single nave which is notable for its sumptuous decorations, the plasterwork on the vault, its marblework and paintings
by G. Cignaroli, G. Battista Buratto and Riva del Garda’s own Giuseppe Craffonara. Take in his Altarpiece of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary behind the main altar and outside in the little piazza which bears his name, there is a niche in his memory with a bas relief of the artist by Francesco Trentini.
Pass through the nearby PORTA SAN MICHELE gate with its bell tower and you come to the ROMAN BATHS, an archaeological site dating back to the first century AD which was discovered in 2007. The baths complex consisted of a courtyard, a number of rooms and service quarters such
as a changing room, a small latrine, a cold room (frigidarium), a warm room (tepidarium), sauna (laconicum) and hot bath (calidarium). Continue northwards along via Roma and you will notice the lovely CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA INVIOLATA, one of the greatest examples of Baroque architecture in Trentino. Built in the 17th century on an octagonal floor plan, it is decorated with plasterwork, frescoes and fine paintings. Outside you can admire the Madruzzo Moses fountain which was built in 1616.
Going back towards the historic centre we pass through PORTA SAN GIUSEPPE gate, once Chiesa della Disciplina before it was deconsecrated and turned into a tunnel connecting the old and new towns. One of the most picturesque corners is PIAZZA DELLE ERBE. Designed by Enrico Odorizzi in 1928 and built in the years after the
war on the rubble of the bombings, for many years it was the market square. There is a lovely Renaissance portico with wide round arches and an iconic circular fountain.
We now enter the most picturesque and scenic quarters
of the town. Among the laneways and little squares you come upon PIAZZA SAN ROCCO and the gate known as PORTA BRUCIATA, the Burned Gate, probably due to a
fire which occurred there in years past. The gate connects Piazza Tre Novembre with piazza San Rocco with the church of the same name which was also destroyed during the First World War. All that remains is the altar and apse on the vault of which there is a clearly visible fresco recently restored. On the opposite side there are the busts of the martyrs of Riva del Garda and a statue of the suffering Christ.
Now strolling through the MAROCCO QUARTER you come to the piazza of the same name. Here you can admire the remains of the walls and the three medieval towers incorporated into the houses. Noteworthy buildings include the bishop’s house, Casa del Vescovo, the votive shrine dedicated to San Rocco and the old wash house. Nearby, the medieval gate PORTA SAN MARCO leads down VIA FIUME (or Contrada Larga) which once connected the harbour with the inland area. For centuries, these historic buildings, frescoes and the well were the backdrop to the day to day life of the Jewish community as can be seen from the plaque on number 4.
Riva del Garda is an unending source of wonder, fascinating corners, and hidden beauties great and small. It is a lively town which will surprise and astonish you. Other attractions include the shades of PIAZZA CATENA, the Lutti Salvadori, Menghin and Martini palaces, the church of San Michele and the shade beneath the pine trees in the Giardini Verdi park.
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Over the years Riva del Garda has expanded, and consequently, beyond its perimeter walls, a short distance from the centre or just a short bus ride away, there are some sights well worth a visit.
The waterfall CASCATA DEL VARONE, one of the most spectacular natural attractions in the area, was opened to the public in 1874 thanks to the creation of a trail through the ravine which allows visitors to admire the over one hundred metre high fall of the underground waters from Lake Tenno. There are two main viewing points in the lower “cave” and the upper one which can be reached through a lush botanic garden. The experience takes you into a 15 metre long tunnel inside the mountain amid the noise, mist and powerful air currents caused by the water. Situated about 3 km from Riva del Garda in the direction of Tenno, the waterfall can also be reached by public transport (info & booking www.cascata-varone.com).
Situated in the Campi district at an altitude of about 800 metres a.s.l., the MONTE SAN MARTINO ARCHAEOLOGICAL AREA is one of the most important archaeological sites in all Trentino. The area was frequented continually from the second half of the Iron Age to the Roman era. At the top there is a major site of worship which dates back to before Roman times and was converted into a sanctuary during the Roman period. Lower down there are dwellings, workshops and public buildings. Above these remains was built the little chapel of San Martino. Various finds can be seen in the MAG museum in Riva del Garda and, subject to booking, at the Centre of documentation in Pranzo di Tenno (info & booking www.archeosanmartino.it). The site can be reached by car (10 km) and then on foot through the woods along a shady path (about 15 minutes).